Iceland #17 - Day 7: Exploring Arnarfjörður

The day started with more of the fog that had spoiled my northern lights-viewing chances the previous night. I was glad for the extra sleep, and had a delicious breakfast around the communal table - there were even cooked eggs; Árni went to a lot of effort to look after his guests. After breakfast some of the guests were leaving and I heard some voices outside. I looked out and found that Árni had an arctic fox on a lead, and everyone was taking photos of little Maria! I could just make out the tops of the hills across the fjord, otherwise hidden by the morning fog.

I headed off along the fjord, my destination for the day being Selárdalur, the site of the strange museum celebrating the works of Samúel Jónsson. I soon got out of the fog that had covered the house all night, but it still lingered across the fjord and on the hills to the south. A patch of blue sky allowed the sun to peek through briefly.

On the far side of the fjord to the north I could see the sunshine on the mountains reflected in the water, even though the hills themselves were still obscured.

I drove on and stopped again just before reaching Dynjandi, as the fog rising created some gorgeous patterns as it clung to hillsides, and the views were reflected in the still water.

Dynjandi is a difficult waterfall to capture at the best of times, but on this morning the sun had just risen above the hills above the top falls, and was coming in and out of clouds. Fog nearly obscured the main falls, but you could just make them out. I didn't stop for long, but took a few shots of the slightly eerie view.

After Dynjandi the road climbs up a long winding road, passing another couple of waterfalls on the right. There aren't many places to stop, but I found one where I got a nice view of the falls (Gyrðisfoss). 

Fog still clung to the fjord below me.

I continued onwards and upwards, where the road takes you up above the Dynjandi falls - although it's not possible to see them from above. I stopped a couple of times overlooking the fjord - the view was spectacular.

The dusty red road meanders around the top of the heath for a while, and shortly another wonderful fjord below comes into view, again filled with fog. Geirþjofsfjörður not only has an amazing name but is also extremely stunning. A few spots along the road allowed me to pull over safely and capture the beautiful fjord.

Another few kilometres and I took a right hand turn that took me above Trostansfjörður, where I'd stopped on my previous visit two years earlier, admiring the view of the meandering river below. On this morning it was just sublime.

The road then came down to the edge of the fjord and hugged the hillside, winding around Reykjarfjörður and then Fossfjörður. The fjords were still and mirror-like providing wonderful reflections.

I continued on until I reached the cute little triangular farming hut with the orange roof. As the fog had lifted and the sun was now far higher in the sky the light had become a little dull and flat. The red leaves on the landscape helped to lift the scene a little.

As I approached Bíldudalur I passed a few farms, but there was very little else on that stretch. The roads aren't supported in winter, which clearly discourages anyone from living along there. I drove past the local airport - another strip of land along the road side, at the edge of the fjord - landing there would be quite fun!

I passed straight through the town, which has a ridiculously slow speed limit, and carried on around the south side of Arnarfjörður. The first beach I reached was Vaðall - which is a wide and deep sandy estuary. The sky was a mix of white overcast and blue with patchy and wispy clouds, and there was a good deal of sunshine to help things along.

I drove on to the far side of the beach as it looked a little easier to get onto the white sand. I found a spot to pull off the road and went for a little hike; there were some interesting patterns and channels.

The brown mountains on the northern shore of the fjord reminded me of a bar of Toblerone!

After my little stroll on the beach I continued on my journey west, stopping a few times along the way to capture the beautiful views. It was very different from my last visit, when it was cloudy, rainy and generally miserable, although a bit more atmospheric. It was truly stunning.

The road meanders along the fjord, with small beaches and headlands dotted along the coastline, wide valleys to the south and big eroded mountains towering above. I stopped on another little beach, with nice patterns in the sand, as well as bird and fox footprints.

The sun was coming in and out, and when it was out the scenery was just glorious. I found a wonderful viewpoint above Brimnes beach, where the hillside rolling down to the coast was covered in boulders.

The end of this wonderful stretch of road brings you to the weird and wonderful Samúel Jónsson museum. The museum is built on his old farm, and contains a church, a couple of houses, and a selection of rather odd sculptures. I paid my small donation and had a little look around, taking a few photographs of the oddities.

Feeling a little bemused by the place I headed back, retracing the same route (obviously) as I'd just driven. It was already 3pm by the time I left, and I had a long drive ahead of me (95km on winding, gravel roads, although only 28km as the crow flies). I had to stop at a few of the spots I'd liked along the way, but didn't do much more walking.

The light was becoming more golden as I reached Bíldudalur. As I drove slowly through the little town I noticed an old couple sitting on a bench, enjoying the rather balmy September afternoon. I smiled at the man, and he waved his stick at me and smiled back. As I drove across the spit towards the airport having witnessed this little moment of human connection I began to cry. I don't often cry tears of joy in Iceland, but occasionally I just become overwhelmed at the loveliness of it all; this was one of those moments. And the drive continued to get better!

Soon I could see the orange-roofed triangular hut in the distance, blending in nicely with the landscape.

Obviously I had to stop again when I got there - the light was not dissimilar from the morning, but the sky was a little bluer.

I stopped again when I saw what was probably the loveliest sight on my whole trip. Fortunately I was able to pull over and stop - it was one of those things that I usually don't stop for and then endlessly regret it. But this time I stopped. It was such a simple but glorious view - a little whooper swan family swimming in a line in the fjord below, creating a ripple line behind them.

I watched them swim gracefully across the fjord for a few minutes, still feeling a little tearful. I continued on, stopping to take a few shots of the hot pool nearby before the road climbs up to the heaths with the incredible views.

I reached the same viewpoint that I'd stopped at on the morning drive, overlooking the Norðdalsá river meandering below. The light was superb, with cute little wispy clouds dotted around.

I stopped a little further on when I noticed another spectacular view; another of my favourites from the whole trip. I could see all of the hills that I'd driven in front of earlier going off into the distance; it was magical.

The wind had started to pick up, and suddenly it became very windy and chilly when I stopped. I stopped again on the pass above Dynjandi, as clouds were building above me; the calm warm weather was over.

I passed Dynjandi - which of course was in the shade by now, so didn't stop - and continued on the narrow bumpy gravel road to Laugaból. I stopped to photograph three sheep which would skittishly run away from me and then stop, pose, and then run a little further away and repeat.

The wind was crazy by now - up to usual Icelandic standards, so I took a few shots of the grasses being blown around, combining a few into one shot in processing.

I watched the sky darken and clouds move and morph, eventually becoming illuminated as the sun set. The clouds often look like animals to me; I saw a dancing woman and a galloping horse. Eventually the light was disappearing and I was too cold and hungry, so I continued the last few kilometres to my home for the night.

I was greeted by Árni offering me supper - he'd cooked up some fish for all the guests, as well as some potato salad - it was delicious, and I was very glad to not have to cook after a rather long day! I chatted to him and a few other guests for a while before heading up to my room to download and review photos, call the hubby and check the weather forecast. Although there was a chance of northern lights the clouds now completely covered the sky. I didn't plan to set off too early the following day, although I had quite a lot planned before my ferry back to Snaefellsnes Peninsula for the night. It had been a really fabulous day, completely remote and alone in the most wonderful landscapes. Ah Iceland :)

Please click here for my blog from Day 6 - The Long Drive from Heydalur to Laugaból
Please click here for my blog from Day 8 - Leaving the Westfjords Behind