Day six of my September jaunt to Iceland would take me 230km around endless fjords and across two mountain passes, covering an as-the-crow-flies distance of a mere 32km! That should give anyone a flavour of the time it takes to drive around the Westfjords - it is not quick, even with the help of a couple of tunnels.
I left Heydalur at around 9.30am under overcast skies. Mjóifjörður looked dull, in spite of the fiery trees dotted on the hillsides. I stopped when I reached the interesting geology I'd noticed the previous day. There were definitely some trolls present.
I didn't spend too long there, as I had a lot of ground to cover in the day, so headed on. I passed the car graveyard and made a quick stop to take a couple of shots. I wondered if any of the Dacia Dusters I've driven ended up there...
I stopped at the other beach again and took a few shots, realising that there were even more interesting eroded stacks to the north of where I'd walked the previous day.
I continued on, the endless fjord roads beckoning. In spite of the dull weather the fjords looked so serene and special.
Next stop was a little further on, near the top of Skötufjörður, where there's a grass-roofed house at Litlibær. I had a little wander around - keen to ensure I got at least some short hikes in despite it being a mainly-driving day - and there were nice views back down the fjord of the road I'd driven up.
A little further on there was a hive of activity, as there was a large number of seals just off the shore, lounging on seaweed. I had another little wander to say hello to the seals (along with the world and his wife) and enjoy the views to the north.
I continued my journey, heading down the narrow Hesfjörður, stopping to capture some of the reflections of the autumn colours and small waterfalls in the still water. I walked along the fjord a little - getting those steps in!
Near the bottom of the fjord I discovered a very pretty waterfall, so got the tripod out for a few long exposures of the water. It's name is Rjúkandi.
By the time I left Rjúkandi it was already 12.30pm and I still had a considerable distance to go. I continued on, straight up to the top of the fjord without stopping. The road then takes you across a very small pass and down into Seyðisfjörður (yes, another one!). At the northern end the road then takes a sharp turn back on itself, down Álftafjörður. There's a big parking area - a good spot to stop and enjoy the views to Suðavík on the opposite side.
The weather hadn't brightened up, so I was a bit disappointed with the dullness - it was due to improve further south on my journey. Next stop was at Valagil - the beginning of a hike to a canyon and waterfall, that I'd stopped at on my previous journey and the rain had been fairly heavy and annoying. At least it wasn't raining today. I parked up and ate my packed lunch (a cheese sandwich), before heading down to the water's edge; I wasn't going any further. I noticed a very cool stripy rock, which was perfectly reflected in the water until the wind picked up and ruined it.
I stopped briefly at Suðavík to photograph the pretty church and some blue sky that had suddenly appeared out of nowhere.
It's a short drive around the top of the fjord and on to Ísafjörður, but there was some construction going on, slowing things down. As I got to the works I noticed a funny sign - there was a 30kmph sign but someone had written below "ish" - should've stopped to take a photo, but missed my window of opportunity (as I often do while driving). I didn't plan to go into the city centre, although I needed to get some food for the next couple of nights, as I'd be self-catering, so hoped that there would be a supermarket before the tunnel. Before reaching that I noticed that I was approaching the airfield and decided to get out for a little hike uphill to get a better view. I found a spot to park and headed up. It's an amazingly-located runway, alongside the edge of the fjord, and apparently is extremely challenging for pilots. There's a good view of the city from that side too.
Fortunately there was a large supermarket just before the road heads uphill towards the tunnel, so I didn't need to make a 3km detour into town. I picked up some salmon fillets (my go-to self-catering dish these days!) and some other bits and bobs, and headed onwards. On my last visit to the Westfjords I'd driven in the other direction, so the drive through the tunnel was a simple one, as you have the right of way coming into town. As I was travelling in the opposite direction, I had to pull over in passing places to let anything coming towards me pass - similar to the tunnels I'd driven through on the Faroe Islands. It is extremely difficult to judge how far away cars are when you're in a tunnel, so in the most part I pulled in far too early, wasting a bit of time, but at least being safe! Half way through the tunnel there's a turn-off towards Suðureyri, somewhere I'll visit on my next trip there. For now I was continuing south, and still had quite a way to go. I took a right turn just past the turn to Flateyri, as someone had mentioned a nice white sand beach there to me. With the grey skies it looked dull, though, but a possible place to return to in better light.
The road south from Flateyri isn't particularly interesting, as mountain passes go - it just goes uphill, pretty straight, and then down the other side again. There was a nice patch of blue sky to the east though, which made a change from the white and grey.
Once you pass over the bridge over Dyrafjörður, however, and head uphill the views become amazing! I was graced with some patches of sunlight in the distance as I ascended.
It's not long before you reach the hairpin bends, that take you up to the top of the Hrafnseyrarheiði pass. I stopped a couple of times to photograph the view - the road is wide enough to allow for this, and there was surprisingly little on the road (I think one car passed me coming in the other direction on the whole of the journey up the hill).
Once you reach the top, then you get another superb view to the south, and more hairpin bends taking you down to Arnarfjörður.
A new tunnel is due to open in 2020 that will go under this mountain, and presumably this road will no longer be kept up. This would be a tragedy, as it is truly one of the most spectacular roads I've driven. Perhaps hiking will be the only option in future.
As I descended towards the fjord the light had improved and there was a beautiful soft afternoon light on the water ahead, as well as refracted light on the hills beyond. I could see the smoke from the factory at Bíldudalur, 13km ahead of me, and the lighthouse at the end of the Laugabol peninsula, 8km away. It was just magical. And it got better the closer I got!
The light over the fjord and surrounding hills was striking, even though it was only 3.45pm by the time I reached the bottom of the hill. I pulled over to photograph some hay bales on a hillside.
As I was getting back into the car I then noticed something in the distance - the sunlight catching some spray. There were whales in the fjord!!! I drove on, eager to get closer, to confirm my whale sighting suspicions. My suspicions were immediately confirmed as I parked overlooking the fjord - there was a pod of possibly humpback whales. I was delighted - what an unexpected treat! The surrounding scenery was wonderful too, with a golden light on the autumnal hills.
I spent the next half hour watching and photographing the spray from the whales on the far side of the fjord. If only I'd had a better reach than the 200mm end of my telephoto lens. I got my first view of my home for the next couple of nights - as well as the magnificent Dynjandi falls two - the reason I was staying nearby.
There were two pods - one opposite me, off the Laugaból peninsula, and another a bit further away to the west. Eventually I continued onwards, keen to get to Dynjandi.
Patterns began to form on the surface of the fjord, with the light catching on them creating interesting shapes and shadows.
The first time I saw Dynjandi - two years earlier - I actually cried as I saw it. The immensity of the falls just blew my mind. I'd approached it from the south, and you don't get to see it until you're right there, so the impact of that first view is greater. This time I'd approached from the north, so had been able to see it since I'd reached the fjord, and I'd seen it two years earlier, so there were no tears! It's still bloody magnificent though!
I parked and set up my tripod to take a few shots of the whole scene, with all the layers. I find it an extremely difficult waterfall to capture. To start with, there are so many different layers, with higgledy-piggledy cascades here and there, and the main star at the top is a strange shape! As for getting the whole scene in focus if you include anything in the foreground... don't bother! The flat light and dusky blue skies above didn't help. I took a few shots near the car, before heading up the hill.
I stopped a little way up to take a view of the fjord and the last light on the distant hills. There were only a handful of people left - there's (almost) nowhere to stay nearby, so most people are gone by sunset, on their way to their homes for the night before attempting to navigate the rough roads in the dark.
While I was there I had a little accident, losing my footing on the path and managing to fall backwards down the hill. These things always seem to happen in slow motion and I can feel myself falling through the air, trying to ensure (in that short time that it actually takes to fall) that I don't hit either my head or my camera gear! I ended up on my back, with my legs pointing uphill, rather ungainly! I picked myself up. I wasn't hurt, and no-one had seen, so didn't have to worry about any embarrassment or "yes, I'm fines" for anyone. I continued uphill, glad that I'd come away unscathed. I stopped a few times on the ascent, but wasn't happy with any compositions. I got to the top layer, where the massive waterfall greets you with an incessant mist, making any photography extremely challenging (set up shot, wipe lens, shoot, repeat, and hope for few water splodges). I realised while I was up there that my remote control button was missing from the little outside pocket of my shoulder bag - it must've been a victim of the fall, so hopefully I'd find it on my return. A few clouds began appearing again above the hilltop, and these were turning pink in the now-post-sunset light.
I retraced my steps, eagerly looking out for the missing remote control, and as expected found it lying in the leaves at the site of the fall - I was pretty glad about that as it is very useful!
And then it was time to head off, continuing along the road past the falls to my guesthouse for the night - Laugaból Farm. I found this place by chance, as it's not on most sites, but was extremely glad that I had, as I'd wanted to stay near to the waterfall. The road isn't an easy one; bumpy, narrow, potholed, raised with no guardrails, but actually not that bad, especially since there's rarely any traffic on the road. It was quite a long way, and was pretty dark by the time I arrived, greeted by my very friendly host, Árni. Part of me wanted to run and take photos of the stunning views of the mountains across the fjord, behind the house, but he was so enthusiastic about the place and nearby that I couldn't tear myself away. I had a double room upstairs, and there was a kitchen and sitting room full of taxidermy animals and birds. It was quite a place in the most remote and incredible setting.
Outside was a hot tub, which I ventured into a little after I arrived. There is nothing quite like sitting in a hot tub in the middle of nowhere, alone, drinking an Icelandic beer, the wind blowing around you a little, under Icelandic skies. It was magical. Later on I cooked one of my salmon fillets and ate it accompanied with delicious avocado and local salad. I then retired to my room to go through the hundreds of photos I'd taken that day! Northern lights were supposed to be around, and when the Bz direction was heading south at around 11pm I poked my head out the door, only to find that instead of the clear skies I'd been treated to earlier there was now dense fog surrounding the house. Ho hum, another time...
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Day 5 - Opposite Vigur & Horseriding at Heydalur
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Day 7 - Exploring Arnarfjörður
I stopped briefly at Suðavík to photograph the pretty church and some blue sky that had suddenly appeared out of nowhere.
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