Iceland #15 - Day 1: Driving to Hraunfossar

Another very late blog, but catching up with some trip reports from last year, so here goes: Iceland #15!

I took my fifteenth trip to Iceland last September, one of my regular twice-yearly trips to the country. As far more is accessible in autumn than in winter, I usually try to explore a little more, and in the past couple of years I've visited the north, east, north-east and north-west. This time, however, I just fancied seeing the bit I know and love so well - the south and south-east - in a different season, so I could delve into the areas a bit more. I added one new place onto my itinerary - Hraunfossar - a place I'd somehow not managed to fit into previous trips.

My journey across to Iceland was the usual one - working from home during the day (which was incredibly stressful as I couldn't find my step-up ring that enables me to put my filters on my telephoto lens (which is uber-important!) (I found it eventually in an outside pocket in my camera bag that I'd forgotten existed), and had a huge amount of work to finish off), enjoying the divine fish and chips at the Heston Blumethal place in Terminal 2 at Heathrow, watching a movie on the flight (Three Billboards... which is awesome!), picking up some Borg beer for the trip, getting the rental car (I'd opted for the cheaper compact model which meant no F roads), driving to Alftanes and tiptoeing in at my friends house so as not to wake them. This time picking up the rental car was quick and efficient (I love Procar!), the weather was decent for the drive, and I wasn't so tired that I was falling asleep at the wheel (like the last time). I was greeted by a curious Jökull, who wanted to join me for the night, but I had to close the door on him, as a cat sleeping on top of you is not ideal (much as I love him).

In the morning I caught up with Sigrún, Johannes and the kids, before heading on my way. First stop was to the supermarket - I was doing a lot of self-catering on this trip - before the obligatory visit to my favourite jeweller, Orr, who had just relocated in the centre of Rekyjavik, just down from Hallgsrimkirkja. It was lovely to catch up and make a couple of new purchases...

Next stop was a little detour through Heiðmork, a little nature reserve just outside Reykjavik, and the wonderful red alien scenery of Rauðhólar. For some reason I'd never heard of either before, and hadn't noticed them as I drove out of the city headed east - presumably because they're usually covered in snow when I drive past in winter. Anyway, it was a lovely drive, with lots of trees and then this weird red landscape. I stopped and did a little hike around the pseudo-craters. The weather was mild and the sun came in and out, and not a soul was around.

The weird red volcanic scenery of the hills at Rauðholár

Autumn is a perfect time to visit here

From there I drove back along the route 1 and through Mosfellsbær, heading up towards Hvalfjörður. I decided to take the scenic route around the fjord and then across the pass on the route 520 (the tunnel is now free, by the way, as of last October). The weather had deteriorated, but it was quite atmospheric and beautiful - it's a stunning drive along the south side of the fjord, which I'd last visited the previous year on my way up to do the Glymur hike.

No hiking up to Glymur today! 

Snowstorms on the north side of Hvalfjörður

I'd recently become friends on Twitter with a half Icelandic/half English photographer called James who'd recently moved back to Iceland and was helping to draw attention to the horrors of the whaling that was going on on the northern side of the fjord. I drove past the site, but it was completely deserted - the boats must have been out at sea, catching whales :( Soon after I took the turn off onto the route 520 which went uphill across a pass - where I was greeted by snow! I'd seen it in the distance, but was still surprised to actually be snowed on. The weather at the end of September is far more wintry than that at the beginning of the month! Once I'd passed through the storm I stopped a couple of times - it was quite lovely up there.

Autumn leaves and a light dusting of snow - winter is coming!

Route 520

Awesome gravel road - route 520

Nice spot for a (massive) summer house

As I came down the hill I noticed a striking river gorge on the left hand side of the road, so pulled over and did a little hike up the hill.

Nice zigzags of this canyon

A bit of rhyolitic hillsides

As I walked uphill a little I discovered a very nice waterfall, that's almost completely hidden from the road (I discovered later on a very detailed map of Iceland that it's called Kerlingafoss). I'd be driving back past it the following morning, so would return with wide angle lens and tripod (often my little stops from the car I just take the camera with whichever lens is on it (usually the 24-70mm or 70-200mm). I tried a handheld panorama - again, something I'd try to replicate the next day.

What a find! A waterfall hidden from the road, Kerlingafoss

I didn't stop again, driving along the route 50 and 517 to get to my guesthouse for the night, Steindorsstaðir. I checked in, unpacked the car, and headed off to Hraunfossar, keen to get as much time there as possible before sunset. It wasn't far, and is very easy to get to - being right off a main road, and a very short walk from the car park. It is a wonderful set of waterfalls, which seep out of the lava rock hillsides, surrounded by colourful autumnal shrubs. It was quite lovely. I wandered up and down the paths, fixating on a couple of spots, heading up to nearby Barnafoss and back to Hraunfossar. It was quite busy and began to rain - stupidly I'd left my waterproofs in the guesthouse in my big backpack, and was worried about getting my down jacket wet, but the rain was very light and didn't seem to do any harm. Here is a selection of shots from that trip, including once the sun began to peak through as it set, illuminating the falls briefly.

First view when you reach Hraunfossar - how come I've never been here before?!

The canyon below Barnafossar - the falls themselves are not that impressive but the setting is amazing

Colourful rocks at Barnafossar

The canyon heading from Barnafossar down to Hraunfoss (not far!)

Hraunfossar detail

My favourite part of Hraunfossar - got a little fixated on this bit! 

Looking downstream - more waterfalls pouring out of the rock!

A touch of sunset light on the rocks

The light disappeared, so I drove the short distance back to the guesthouse, planning on returning the following morning for sunrise. What a magical place! Back home I made myself some pasta, and then headed outside and popped into the hot tub and opened one of my special Garun beers - it was bliss. A lovely way to end a great first day back in my favourite country.

But wait, there's more! Back inside I got a DM on Twitter from James who said I should check the northern lights out. I explained that it was cloudy where I was, but I did have a peak outside and could just make out some greenness. I looked at all the websites, downloaded a new app, and checked all of the weather forecasts I could find. Sadly I'd have to drive about 100km to get to clear skies (back to Reykjavik, pretty much) and I just didn't have the energy (plus definitely no driving after a Garun - they're strong!). It was strange, only one website seemed to know that there was a sudden aurora storm - most of them had it still as low activity. It was handy to have someone in the know put that right! I did manage to get a few shots, and enjoy a bit of a display through the clouds a few steps away from the house, but nothing as spectacular as James had seen from his balcony down in Hafnafjörður. Ho hum, that's the luck of the draw!

Cloudy corona - would've been amazing otherwise!

Shoulda been in Reykjavik where there was not a cloud in the sky :(

Damned cloud!

I love watching coronas, but just not the same when you can barely see it!

Hopefully this wouldn't be my only opportunity to see the lights. There was a also a full moon a couple of nights later, which was far from helpful, but I still had my fingers crossed for more. Not a bad first day at all.

My route from Day 1

Click here for my blog from Day 2 - Hraunfossar to Hrífunes