The second attempt was a success, although the waterfalls were nearly melted, and the nights were cloudy, so no decent northern lights viewing. The weather was good during the day, though, which made the trip fantastic. The first day a driver from the hotel picked us up from the airport and drove us to Goðafoss; the sun peaked out of some rogue clouds to let us see the incredible waterfall in its full glory. Some of it was still frozen too, much to my delight!
The following day we did a fantastic (but not cheap!) trip up to the Vatnajökull National Park in a massive Superjeep - the wheels were about a metre tall. Along the way we picked up another couple who were celebrating the guy's 40th birthday (they'd spent his 30th at the Iguazzu Falls and he'd asked his wife to take him to Europe's biggest falls for his 40th). They were both clowns; it was an interesting day. We visited three large waterfalls: Selfoss, Dettifoss (the largest in Europe by volume of water) and Hafragilfoss, all of which were spectacular, along the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river, with massive basalt columnar cliffs. There was a lot of snow still around, although only small parts of the waterfalls themselves remained frozen.
We had lunch overlooking Hafragilfoss, my favourite of the three, and drank whisky to celebrate our companion's birthday. If only I'd had a neutral density filter back then, so I could've made the water properly blurred - this was the best I could do in bright daylight without a filter.
Shame about the northern lights too, or rather lack thereof, but the woman still scattered the ashes out over a small volcanic cone on the edge of Lake Myvatn. The evenings were still pretty, nonetheless, with great clouds.
On our way home we spent a lovely day with friends Sigrún & Johannes in Reykjavik and then made it back to London (no issues with the Stansted Express), having had an incredible long weekend in a rather remote spot of the world, having met some rather strange, but nevertheless very interesting people.